12th December 2017
Since I am not in the rush, I spared 20 days to slowly explore Taiwan on my saddle. No detailed plans of route because this is a spontaneous trip. 2 months ago my wife said she wants to go Taiwan, I said “Ok, I’ll bring my bicycle along…”, that was how this trip happened.
I only got a hand book from my friend, Melissa Wong, as guide, no clues of weather, wind condition, route…etc. I just know that the temperature is about 20ºC during autumn. Well, this was my 1st mistake.
As end of November, it is actually the end of autumn, winter kicked in and the prevailing wind for this time are North and North East. When the winter is approaching, the usual cold and wet will start from north then to south.
Weather – Noticeably temperature change everyday during the ride, just 2 days of cycling from south to north, the weather fluctuated from 22ºC to 16ºC. The last day of my ride to Jiaoxi, it was 13ºC at night, and cold wind never stop gusting. It is still good if I would take the clockwise route from north to east and to south via west coast back to Taipei, then I should be cycling in tail wind, instead I went anti-clockwise, which was from west coast headed towards north via east coast, which I was actually fighting against the head wind from north and north east, 2nd mistake. Night falls early during autumn, the night falls at 5:30pm when I started riding, towards the north it became 5:00pm, at the end of my ride, 4:45pm the sun is setting.
Route – I realised the route from south to north via east coast is mainly up hill. The climb usually long, sometimes it is steep but mostly it is distance. And the road sign can be quite deceived, there was a part of route, during half way of pedalling up, I saw a road sign written 150m ascend, but I pushed until 1.7km to finish the climb. And after the 1.7km, saw another road sign written “SLOW! 450m descend”. Damn! The terrain doesn’t seemed down at all, just little flat then up I went again. Aside of the climbing, Taiwan is a beautiful island and paradise for cycling enthusiast. It is safe to ride around the island, the government spent lots of money on the infrastructure for cyclists to round island. The motorbike and bicycle route are clearly signed. Even in the city, the shoulders are broad. Route number and guides are painted as little blue arrow on the surface of the roads, and also the distance of rest point and convenience store are clearly indicated. Just follow the bicycle lane and the painted signs and you’ll never get lost. There are also many rest benches in every 200m – 300mm interval along the area where steep hill and hard climbing is required, so that you will have rest stops.
View – When riding on Cycling Route #1, scenery at south mainly city views, little farms, paddy fields and fruit farms mostly can be seen at small towns towards south. Pacific Ocean and mountain at the east coast. The mountains will be on your left and the beautiful Pacific Ocean will be on your right, it is beautiful but the wind will show no mercy during winter.
Food – YA!!!…FOOD!!! Food is never a problem for us Asian, and for those who likes Asian food. Convenience stores and fruit stalls are often spotted. Night markets in every town where I stayed. Taiwanese street food such as beef noodle, mince meat rice, stinky bean curd and mee in soup are easily to be found. Plenty of Japanese restaurants in every town too. In big city, McDonald’s and western restaurants are obvious. Prices are reasonable, I spent about TWD200 – 300 daily for food, included snacks.
Stay – Stay was never an issue in Taiwan, many home stays and BnB. Cyclist are welcome. Often they allowed me to park my bicycle at the lobby. Price range from TWD300 – 800 for bunk bed and TWD1000 – 1500 for single room. The hosts are usually very friendly, and speak simple English.
People – Yes, Taiwanese are friendly, especially at the south. The vehicles and motorcyclist will give way to bicycle riders. They often overtook me from a safe distance, 2 metres away. Often I saw driver thumbs up to me when they overtook me, and some even yelling and hooting at you as encouragement when they see you riding up hill. I experienced a motorcyclist in very slow speed followed behind me for few kilometres until I conquered the steep slope, then he sped off.
So, in conclusion, Taiwan is a good place for cycling, a paradise for cyclist enthusiast.
Epilogue
I didn’t finish the round island ride, I had to gave up the 96km ride from Hualian to Jiaoxi via Suhua Province Highway because of falling rocks due to bad weather and rain, the road authority closed one lane and vehicles were under control, cyclist certainly not allowed. All cyclists have to take a train ride to Jiaoxi. And for the last 56km from Jiaoxi to Taipei, I gave up due to cold wind and bad weather. That day was 14ºC in the morning and the rain was from midnight until 10:00am the next morning, no sign of subsise. In despaired, I went back to Taipei by train and ended my adventure without completing my goal.
I have lost 2kg of weight throughout the 12 days of riding, this reminded me a friend of mine who rode with me for 4 days at Central Malaysia, she gained 4kg in the 4 days ride. Hmmm…. There must have some secrets that I don’t know.
我并不急于赶时间，我给自己二十天悠悠慢骑慢遊台湾。 这是一个随意的决定，没有详细的路线规划或地图，只有一本我朋友，Melissa Wong，给我的手册。两个月前太后说要去巡视宝岛，我就随口回了一句，“可以啊，那我就带脚车一起咯。。。” 然后， 就这样无端端的。。。流浪了一个月。
我对台湾的气候，风向和路况没有一点头绪， 只知道台湾的秋天应该是20ºC左右, 屎！ 这是第一个错误。其实十一月尾已是台湾的秋末，冬天的脚尖已经踏进来了，变态的东北风和北风已开始张牙舞爪，面目狰狞，踮着脚尖跳起了肚脐舞由北部扭着粗腰南下，越接近十二月，就跳的越起劲。
天气 － 骑行时明显感受到气候的变化，只是两天从南到北，温差从22º跌到16ºC, 最后一天在礁溪时，夜晚已是13ºC, 还有从北而下的冷风从不间歇。若我顺时钟方向从北沿着东海岸路线南下，再从西海岸向北骑，就是顺风並且不会太冷。然而我是逆时钟方向从西海岸南下再转去东海岸向北破风而上，第二个错误。越向北，天黑得越早。从起初的5:30 到5:00，来到到北部时，4:45就开始天黑， 骑行时间越来越短。
路线 － 我发觉沿东海岸由南到北的路线，一直都是往上爬。。。爬。。。爬。。。只有几个小下坡。其他的都是上坡，且是长坡，几公里长的，有些又陡又长。有次爬了很久，差点“翘”掉时看到路旁有个路牌標誌10% － 150米上坡，虽然已经踩到要死了，心想还有150米，咬紧牙根，上！ 踩了很久。。很久。。。很久。。。。很久。。。。。到顶时，看下米表，1.7公里！迎头又有个告示牌 － 慢！450米下降。。。 他奶奶的狗头！！！摆在眼前的明明就是个上坡段，何来下坡？！？！ 顿时那经典福建名句～～在吊床上睡懒觉～～（呃。。。前面五个字略去，只要后面两个发音。我们斯文人骂人也要有点诗意。。。）马上就脱口而出。
除了陡坡，台湾其实是个漂亮，很适合热爱骑行的，骑士乐园。环岛自行车道都有明显的箭头标誌，善意的提醒前方还有几公里有休息站。当爬到陡坡时，沿途每隔200 – 300米就有个木椅给你休息。
风景 － 当我骑在环岛路线一号时，往北的风景多是城市，往南会看到不多的田地和果园，还有小镇。往北途经东海岸，左边是山，右边可浏览美丽的太平洋还有黑沙滩。东海岸路线很美，不过无情的风会不停的跟你搭讪。
吃 － 台湾小食多，对亚洲人不是问题。一路上不停见到便利店，水果摊。 每一个镇都有夜市。台湾著名小食，牛肉麵，卤肉饭，臭豆腐，大肠米线。。。还可找到日本餐厅，麦当劳。。。并且不贵，我每天吃的花费大概是TWD200 – 300之间。
住宿 － 民宿，背包客栈在台湾比比皆是，价格在TWD300 – 800之间，单人房价在TWD1000 – 1500之间，自行车还可泊在旅馆内，绝对安全。老闆都很热情，好客。
人文 － 台湾人多友善，尤其是南部。摩托骑士或汽车经过踏脚车骑士时都会高喊“加油”，为你打气。虽然自行车道和汽车使用同一条公路，通常当他们超车时，都会和你保持安全距离。有一次当我在爬一个陡坡时， 有个摩托骑士以比我还慢的速度在后面跟着我，一直等我攻了顶，才开走。这就是台湾人。
台湾,自行车骑士的乐园，尤其是独骑者。
后记
我没有完成我的骑遊环岛，应为连绵的雨导致苏华公路落石，一边的路道关闭，车辆受管制，所有十一个骑士被逼放弃96公里的苏花公路改搭火车从花莲到礁溪。第二天早晨礁溪气温14ºC, 冷风不断，雨也没有停歇的迹象，从8点等到10点，心都灰了，想起了张学友的那首歌。。。“有时候绝望比冬天还寒冷”。。。。唉！。。。只有忍痛放弃最后的56公里，再搭火车回台北。
回到家发觉自己瘦了2公斤，这使我想起曾和我在中马同骑的一位友人，经过四天的骑遊，胖了四公斤，我反而掉了两公斤。。。Hmmm。。。得跟她多多学习。
The only guide book I had from my friend. 没有行程规划，只有跟着这本手册的路线。
My grey pony. 我的自行车，与我一起飞了三千多公里。
Sun Moon Lake. 日月潭
Donghai University, most beautiful university in Taiwan. 台湾最美大学 － 东海大学。
National Taiwan Museum Of Fine Art 国立台湾美术馆
Shilin Night Market. 士林夜市。
Taipei 101 Tower and night view of Taipei from 88th floors. 台北101大楼，在88楼欣赏台北夜景。
Beautiful Maokong and the crystal cable car. 美丽的猫空和玻璃缆车。
Beautiful Jiufen Old Street, especially in the rain. 下着霏霏细雨的九份老街特别妩媚
Bicycle lane – Painted signs with route number and arrow on the road and cyclist rest points. 自行车道，明显的箭头标识和路线号，还有休息站。
Benches in every 200m – 300mm interval along the area where steep hill and hard climbing is required 当爬到陡坡时，沿途每隔200 – 300米就有个木椅给你休息。
Taiwan have many good food, this is just a glimpse. 台湾小食多，这只是一部分
Crazy Old Horse 