
30th November 2017
Chiayi – Tainan (82.2km)
Yesterday was too tired, once touch the bed, before I could lay down, already fell in sleep. Woke up 6:00am this morning, my eyes opened but my soul still sleeping. Got a moment of lost, don’t know where am I and why am I not seeing the familiar ceiling but a bunk bed instead. It took awhile for my soul to come back to my body… oh yes, I’m at Taiwan and my mission is to cycle round island, today is my 4th day. I guess the withdrawal symptoms is kicking in, yesterday I forgot to have breakfast and today, I lost my soul.
Chiayi, big city but quiet town, though it was peak hour when I started rolling out in the morning, but the street seemed deserted.
It was easy getting out of the city by just follow the signage that painted on the road. Unlike the passed few days. Out of city, a long slope awaiting to welcome me, it was like a prophecy telling me that today’s ride is going to be hard with my still remained fever. Truly, I was drained with this first 20km long climb, and there are still many ups and downs ahead of me. But alongside there are benches placed in every 200-300m interval, so that rest stop wasn’t a problem during the long climb.
Destination for today was Kaohsiong. The sun started to burn at noon, it is warmer towards southern. Soon I was at Liuying District, a place full of paddy fields. Ahead of Liuying is Guantian Village. A village that produced water caltrop. Endless of water caltrop ponds, and many stalls by the roadside selling fresh harvested water caltrop. The farmers collected the harvested products and rinsed with clean water, and steam immediately. 1 paper bag for TWD100, bought 1 for myself as lunch, fresh and sweet, entirely satisfying.
Left Guantian, rode to Shanhua District, passed by a strawberry farm, but didn’t go in cause I don’t really like strawberry. Riding on highway after left strawberry farm, nothing much to see, scenery slowly getting bored. Stopped for a rest beside the highway near the link road to Tainan, feeling tired and considered of my physical condition, I’ve no confident to make it to Kaohsiong before dark. Decided to changed plan to stay a night at Tainan. Just about 2km away, I turned right to Tainan town.
Tainan’s traffic a bit heavier, lots of shops on both sides selling drinks; fruit juice, tea houses and cafes. I stopped for 2 cold fruit juice then set off to look for guesthouse.
Once I reach the guest house, I was told by the owner that I’m the only guest tonight, and he, too, has to go Kaohsiong, left me with the 4-storey building alone. I can sleep in any room on any bed, and it only cost me TWD500.00. WALAA!!! What a great blessing! Felt like wanna hug him and give him a kiss but to avoid scaring him, I have to pretend to be cool and calm, of course, must show some sad face and hope to have some discount on room rate. Sadly I didn’t get it. Taiwan people are not only friendly, they’re easy trusting people. Tonight, I am the boss of a guesthouse.
昨晚一碰到床,还没倒下已经睡着了,今早六点给闹钟吵醒,灵魂还没归位,有点迷惘身在何处,真的花了好一阵子才明白身在宝岛,目的是骑车, 今天是第四天。。。还好不是精神错乱。
嘉义算是大城市, 可是却人车稀少。虽是上班时刻, 骑在车上的我还是觉得挺孤独的。
今早跟着地上路标, 出城容易多了。不像前几天,浪费时间在城裏兜圈。一离开市区,临头又一段坡路向我搔首弄姿,唉!。。。有一种要上断头台的感觉, 尤其是身体还抱恙。果然,二十公里的爬坡路。。。老马的心脏要从胸部跌到脚趾头啦! 狗! 还好一路上每200-300米处有一个停歇点,有几张木椅可以让老马休息喘气。感觉台湾政府对单车骑士还蛮体贴的。
今天的目的地是高雄。 中午的阳光灼热,南方的天气比较温暖,不知觉的哼起了周传雄的那首“黄昏” ~ 温暖中有种“阳光”灼伤的感觉。。。 不久骑到柳营,柳营应该是个农村吧,一路骑来都是水田。看着路旁田园景色,有种熟悉的感觉,好像马来西亚的适耕庄,只是已过收割期,沿途见到的都是黄巴巴的草。 柳营后就到官田。官田盛产菱角,一路上数不尽的菱角田,又是错过收割期吧,见到的都是烂泥,和稀稀落落,垂头等死的叶子。在田旁塔有简陋的临时木棚售卖刚从湖裏捞起的菱角,在路旁洗净后蒸熟,现采现煮,肯定新鲜, 又便宜,一包才台币100, 来官田那可不吃菱角,买了一包当午餐。
离开官田, 骑过善化, 再经过樱桃园,在接近转进台南的路口处停歇休息。考虑自身的身体状况, 觉得没信心骑到高雄, 只好在台南过一晚。中午的台南相当热闹, 车流量蛮多, 两旁的商店都在营业中, 大多是卖饮料。喝了两杯果汁, 然后就准备物色今晚的住宿了。
来到客栈,老板告知今晚我是唯一的住客,老板他本身要下高雄。住那间房和睡那张床,我自己选。哇噻!!! 才五百块台币咧,整栋四层楼的客栈就我包完。当时感动得眼泪在眼眶裏转,差点就要抱着老板亲吻脸额,但为免吓到他而赶我走,还要装作很冷静,很为难的,很勉强的表情,用很平静,很低沉的声调,跟他说: 老板,您放心去吧,我一定会帮您好好看顾您的客栈。(其实心裏窃喜暗爽到在阴阴邪笑。。。哇!哈!哈!哈!)然后半推半拉的推他上车,目送他离去, 还一直叮嘱一路平安。。。(妈的,最好半个月都别回,让我五百块钱住个十天八天, 还可顺便从路过旅客赚点旅费!)
难怪人说,台湾最美的景是人,而且轻易信任陌生人。
Chiayi Town in the morning peak hour, light vehicles but with endless traffic lights. 早上的嘉义市,车少人稀,红绿灯特别多。
This motorcycle tunnel will lead out of town, quiet and sinister 要出市镇得经过这阴森恐怖的隧道。
Rice fields at Liuying District. 柳营的田园风光
Endless of water caltrop ponds at Guantian. 观天的菱角田湖。
The water caltrop and me having lunch and resting at the bench. 在给骑士歇息的木椅上休息的我和我的午餐,菱角。背景就是菱角田。
About 2km from this deserted highway, make a left turn, is Tainan. 在这死寂的高速公路转左就是台南市。
The guesthouse 台南一点点背包客旅馆