3rd December 2017
Hengchun – Kenting – Mudan Township (52.6km)
The morning of Kenting sea view along the west coast is amazing, white sand, blue skies and ocean. The beautiful white bubbles of the “suicide wave” when hit on the rocks, painted a beautiful picture for the scene. The rock formations are unique, especially the Sail Rock, which is a rock formation looks like a sail of a ship from afar. My supposed to be pleasant morning ride was spoiled by the chilly incessant headwind. The gale was so strong that I was forced to pedal hard on a descending slope. Headwind will never, never, ever, welcome to cyclist.
Struggled and fought through the gale, conquered the ups and downs on the road along the west coast at Kenting, I eventually reached the Southernmost Point of Taiwan, Eluanbi Lighthouse. parked my bicycle beside the ticket counter, fought against the wind, walked up to top of the hill for the light house.
It is a rather small light house in white, I was underwhelmed cause tourist are not allow to enter into the it. Not many tourist, I guess maybe due to the winter weather. With disappointment, I left without going to the pathway to see the Kissing Rocks and the panorama view of the bay.
Back to guesthouse, packed my panniers and off for the highlight of today, Shouka.
Shouka is one of the steepest hill in Taiwan, it is about 37km steep climb. I was mentally prepared for the mountain but physically….
Came out of old town, passed Chechen, turned right to County Road 199, the ascend begins. It was noon and hot and the slope is steep, worst was the winter wind, added misery to the ride. Just a short distance of gentle gradient, then the climb gets progressively steeper. The climb was so sheer until I was wet in sweat even in the winter. Kept pedalling until it was like – Whoa!…Why is the darkness closing around me… And it took me like a life time and still not there yet…..
After passed through several native villages, I was totally exhausted when I reached Mudan Village, a village with less than 10 houses and 1 primary school. Stopped by the road at a door step I thought was a house, to catch my breath, awhile later, I realised I was actually stopped right in front of a native min-su (home stay), was only halfway done to the peak. Gosh!.. Don’t think I can complete the remaining ascend and make it to Taitung… Without hesitation; whatever cost will be the room rate, who cares… Just checked in to stay 1 night… Most importantly for now, must keep alive…
I was the only guest, and an old dog in the home stay, the host disappeared to nowhere.
一早被垦丁的蓝天和海给吸引住，奇形的礁石，海浪猛力的用头撞向礁石而破碎成的白色的泡沫，和垂死前的哀号。。。很有灵气的一幅画面。。。其中有着最著名的一块石头，船帆石。远看像船的帆，近看就是一粒大礁石。。。（又讲废话了。）其实今早一路骑来都是逆风（什么狗风，乱乱吹。)甚至传说中的踩下下坡路，真的给我遇上了。。。第一次经历传说是兴奋， 没料到却是噩梦的开始。。。
今早的目标是台湾最南端，鹅銮鼻灯塔。千辛万苦破风来到灯塔，脚车不能进，唯有泊在售票处，又逆着风拾級而上看灯塔。小小的灯塔，有点失望，我想象中的灯塔应该是大大高高的，这么个短短矮矮的，没有一点气势。唯一的好处是遊客稀稀落落，不拥挤，可能是冬天风大的关系吧。失望之下，也没去走那海岸步道和探访亲嘴石，就回程去客栈。
回到客栈拿了行李，朝今天目标，寿卡，出发。
寿卡，台湾众陡坡路中其中之一条，也是脚车骑士的朝圣路，取道车臣，山脚到山顶有37公里，已做好心理准备挑战这艰苦的骑道，但是体力呢。。。嘿嘿。。。等着瞧吧。。。
从古城出发， 不远来到199县道，转右就是山脚，挑战就从这裏开始。一开始坡度还好，骑不一会就开始感受到地心吸力的反抗，时当中午，又晒，可是吹来的风又冷，更何况我还承戴着28公斤的驮包，再加上当地人说的“落山风”。哇噻！真有够受的！（为什么风要下山呢？ 逛市集吗？奇怪。）
这个上坡路有够陡的，一路骑来都是山，踩到我残余的脑袋一片空白，老眼昏花，双腿好像火烧般灼热。 提着每分钟心跳300的心脏，踩到呼吸差点停顿褂掉死翘翘，拼了老命跟死神搏斗了不少回合，踩到差点要叫阿娘！救郎啊（闽语）！！！。。。(终于明白为何此山叫寿卡，要骑车爬到山顶，寿都给卡了一半)。
骑到牡丹村，一个微型小村，不到十户人家，还有一所小学。终于踩到体力不支，在一看似屋子的门前停下， 喘气喘到狗头一样。 奶奶的， 老马变老狗。。。再看时间，中午三点多。。。娘啊! 三个多小时，还没骑到一半吧！
喘够了气，暮然回首， 哈。。远在天边， 近在眼前， 才发觉原来我停下歇息的地方是一台湾排族经营的民宿，看看天色，估计今天不可能骑到台东，管他房价多少，进去借宿一宵再做打算，最重要是今天得先保住条老命。老天待我还真不薄，在这阵阵阴风的小村，为我预备了这阴森森的民宿，我的房间又在那阴森森的走廊尽头。最阴的还是这整个民宿只有我，和一隻老狗包场，老板又不见人了。还好近来没做什么缺德事，半夜敲门也不惊。到了半夜也没什么东西敲门，不等了，蒙头一觉到天亮。
Kenting in the morning. 垦丁海岸
Famous Sail Rock at Kenting Beach. 垦丁著名的船帆石
Eluanbi Lighthouse. 鹅銮鼻灯塔
View from the lighthouse. 灯塔海景
One of the scene on the way to Shouka. 寿卡途中一景
Mudan Village 牡丹村
The min-su that “saved” my life. 台湾排族经营的民宿。
My room at the end of this sinister aisle, and I was the only guest in the guesthouse. 阴森森的走廊，走廊的尽头就是我的房间
Sinister lobby of the guesthouse. 阴森森的柜台
Crazy Old Horse 